The Tartu Observer / June 2024
In this issue: Tartu, the 15-minute city of culture. Meet Jordi, the English actress who introduced people to Annelinn. Enter the prize draw! Culture recommendations.
↓ In this issue
1 / Editor’s Observations: Tartu, the 15-minute City of Culture
2 / Observe a Tartuvian: Jordi Ripley
3 / Prize Draw: Win ‘The Bridges of Tartu’!
4 / Linguistically Accessible Culture Recommendations for June-July
1 /
Editor’s Observations
Tartu, the 15-minute City of Culture
by
By the end of ‘Tangent’, I felt privileged.
It had taken me and my wife just 15 minutes to get up from home, walk to the Vanemuine, and take our seats to experience this world-class technological theatre from Japan.
A week later, I was sitting in the last row overlooking the 10,000-seat amphitheatre that is Tartu Laululava. This time I was with my mother, who, like many others that evening, had traveled to Tartu from northern Estonia to attend the concert of Sting, a world-famous singer-songwriter and musician.
It had taken us just 15 minutes to walk from my place to see Sting perform on the slopes of Tähtvere.
These are just a few cases from May and June when our city felt somewhat unreal. Tartu hosted a cascade of big events, premieres, and special performances, all within walking distance.
Still, I could not visit everything I wanted. Some shows – like the play ‘Rahamaa’ (‘Moneyland’), a massive hit with critics and audiences alike – were sold out before I could buy a ticket. If my mother hadn't had the tickets, I would have missed Sting just the same!
The 15-minute city is originally an urban planning concept. It means that most daily necessities should be easily reached by a 15-minute walk, bike ride, or public transit ride. And indeed, while there are always some cultural activities within easy reach here, I think this year, 2024, will set a new standard for what you can experience in Tartu within a quarter of an hour's walk.
In 15 minutes I could walk to Raekoja plats and be a part of another crowd of over 10,000 people attending ‘Kissing Tartu’, the Eurovision songs concert. Or I could board by Linnamuuseum the bus that was the beginning of the ‘Läbi Linna: Annelinn’ theatrical journey (read more about it in the interview with Jordi Ripley below).
In addition to being just big, great, and rare, I find these events special also in other impactful ways.
Some of them were unusually accessible to these visitors and inhabitants of Tartu who don’t speak much Estonian.
While Sting is an Englishman and ‘Tangent’ is essentially a wordless spectacle, ‘Läbi Linna’ decided for the first time to produce parallel foreign language versions of their theatrical journey. Both my wife and I tried to support this initiative by promoting it in ways we could, as we felt that there are few such English-speaking experiences in Tartu.
On the other hand, I observed that Sting had in the audience also people – mostly older men – who knew his songs, but who probably would not have gone to such a concert abroad or even in Tallinn.
When I think of the Estonian concertgoers, first there are the very English-speaking (and likely better off) people who travel around Europe to see Taylor Swift, Coldplay, or heroes of their preferred subgenre. Then there are the people who go to see new or old A-list stars in Tallinn, the usual Estonian location of such concerts.
Finally, some people will only attend a concert by a world-famous artist if (s)he comes to town. This group of concertgoers may not have the language skills, money, or time to travel to faraway destinations, but they’ve heard Sting or The Police on the radio as often as anyone else.
Now some of them have heard and seen Sting also live. Because in 2024, Tartu is this sort of city of culture where big, great, and rare things happen just 15 minutes away.
→ As I am also involved in Tartu 2024 events as an audience feedback and user experience researcher, I invite you to share your insights by email or in person, if asked. If you want, you can also share your observations directly with me on Instagram or Facebook.
2 /
Observe a Tartuvian
Jordi Ripley
by
On ten evenings in May and June, Jordi Ripley, an actress from England, guided audiences through Annelinn, home to a quarter of Tartu. She told people stories about this panel house district as one of the main characters in ‘Läbi Linna: Annelinn’ theatrical journey.
Jordi, hi! The layout and numbering of the buildings in Annelinn are notoriously challenging for anyone who doesn't live there. I know I have gotten lost myself a few times! Did you ever get lost in Annelinn when you were getting to know the area?
We had our rehearsal space in Anne Youth Centre. I had been going there for maybe two weeks. Every morning the same route. And I took another route one day and I got sooo lost! I knew that I was really close to the youth centre but I couldn't for the life of me work out which direction I should go in. I knew how close I was, but every turn I took was wrong so I felt I was in this endless universe.
How well do you know the area now after so many rehearsals and performances?
Annelinn is so big. I feel like I have a very good understanding of where certain things are on the route that we took in ‘Läbi Linna’. There are key landmarks that I used to figure out in which direction we should go in and where are. But I wouldn't say that I know the area that well still. It's so big and looks very similar.
What are your favourite places in Tartu for food?
I've been mainly cooking my own food and haven't really gone to many restaurants. But I have gone to Dolce Vita a couple of times. They have really good pizza and lovely ice cream!
What are your favourite places in Tartu for drinks? Why?
Barlova. When I came here in February that was the first place I was around for drinks in the snow. And I just thought the people and everything about Barlova are just right up my street. In a short time, there are already friendly faces and you get hugs from the people from the bar. And I have also gone to Kivi a couple of times to dance.
What's your general favourite place in Tartu? Why?
I have been living in Supilinn and I really love it here. Being from the UK, I was just overwhelmed by the beauty of classic old wooden houses in different colors and shapes. I have taken lots of pictures!
And just up the river, there is this little deck. Pretty much every morning, especially when it was really really hot in the rehearsal period, that would be my habitual space to go and swim and lay and practice my monologues there. You get there such a great view of the river and life and boats.
In your opinion, which one is the most boring neighbourhood in Tartu (out of the areas you've seen)? Why?
I guess I can't really answer that. I can't remember the name of the area that is… across the river from Supilinn. I haven't spent much time there. I know it is kinda just one long road. But again having cycled through there, it still looks beautiful, but I don't have much connection with that area, so I would choose that area.
What is missing in Tartu? What would you add to Tartu?
Maybe a really nice cafe in Supilinn – a cafe-bar-pub type of place that has all of that? A meeting point for people who are living in the local area.
Finally, please share your favourite story about getting to know Tartu or Tartuvians.
It's crazy how quickly I felt I was really welcomed in the whole community!
I was also slightly taken aback and blown away by how beautiful “Läbi Linna” was and how some of the local kids got involved. You think back about being a kid and remember those moments when something comes in and it has an effect on you…
For example, there was a lovely boy called Andreas who would always wait for us in the central scene. When we arrived, he marched out with a big smile on his face. In the end of that scene, I had a task that involved a ball of yarn. And Andreas would always come and help me and gather that yarn up.
→ Read the whole story about Andreas and follow the Läbi Linna team as they prepare their next theatrical journey, which will premiere in October in Valga/Valka on the Estonian-Latvian border.
3 /
Prize Draw
Win ‘The Bridges of Tartu’!
"Which bridge of Tartu is your favourite?'“ asked Polina from Visit Tallinn's YouTube channel.
My favourite? I had never thought about it!
So let this be the Tartu Observer's first prize draw:
Which Tartu bridge is your favourite? And why? Let me know on Instagram and you may win a 'Bridges of Tartu' set!
What did I answer? I hope you hear it in Visit Tallinn's upcoming vlog about Tartu as a European Capital of Culture. Follow them at https://youtube.com/@visittallinn!
→ If you don't want to try your luck, find ‘The Bridges of Tartu’ set of storytelling postcards at Rahva Raamat online store or at Tasku Rahva Raamat!
4 /
Culture Recommendations for June-July
Linguistically Accessible Events
by
Tartu City Day is celebrated on June 29, the day of its patron saints Peter and Paul. Although they sound a bit like an indie rock band, Saints Peter and Paul are traditionally celebrated in Tartu with free-of-admission orchestral music. This year’s biggest concert will take place on Raekoja plats, telling the story of the 800-year-old City of Tartu through a special selection of songs.
Having just visited it, I highly recommend 'Wild Bits', an international open-air exhibition of technological art. It's a perfect excuse to get out and experience the picturesque hilly wilderness of Otepää Upland, located around 40 km from Tartu. Various objects that move, compute, blink, or emit, are placed into the surroundings, offering an intriguing reflection on the relationship between nature and technology. The exhibition is open until 15 September.
One of the few moments when I regretted eating so much of what Tartu has to offer was when the Stencibility team sent me a super cool t-shirt for supporting their campaign on Indiegogo to cover a Tartu city line bus with 22,000 stickers. I asked for a size M shirt, but alas, I was not size M anymore!
The same people who did the city line sticker bus are also behind the Stencibility Street Art Festival, which takes place from July 4th to 7th. Many of the artworks you see on the walls around Tartu were created during previous festivals. This year’s focal point will be Pärmitehas, a former yeast factory in Ülejõe that also served as an underground cultural centre in the late 2000s.
→ See Tartu and Southern Estonian events at kultuuriaken.tartu.ee and Tartu2024.ee. The latter has also a handy list of top events.
See you in Issue #5!
The Tartu Observer is written and drawn by @sketchingpaas. If you feel this issue was well worth your time, consider buying a print from me, becoming a paid subscriber, or buy me a drink.