The Tartu Observer / April 2024
In this issue: What is the shape of Tartu? Meet the Englishman who loves all the kodukohvikutepäevad. Sketchy Stuff: How to make the perfect packaging? + Recommendations.
↓ In this issue
1 / Editor’s Observations: What is the Shape of Tartu?
2 / Observe a Tartuvian: Mike Cole
3 / Sketchy Stuff: How to Make the Perfect Packaging
4 / Culture Recommendations for April-May: Linguistically Accessible Tartu Events
1 /
Editor’s Observations
What is the Shape of Tartu?
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'In my opinion, Tartu is a fucking bowl-shaped fishermen's village,' claimed Kerttu Rakke, a (Tallinn-based) writer. This quote, although from the early 2000s, is still well-known and strongly condemned among the fisherm... citizens of Tartu.
Whether Tartu is 'a village' and Tallinn 'a city' is an evergreen topic worthy of a comedy show on its own, but in this month's story, we’re gonna observe the shape of Tartu.
Two weeks ago I introduced my illustrated maps to a group of Spring semester students from abroad at the University of Life Sciences. I asked what are their favourite Tartu places and the areas they consider the most boring. The locations they mentioned stretch from their Tähtvere campus to Raekoja plats. Only a few of them said to have wandered further, to Annelinn or Karlova.
So, for these students, the actual shape of Tartu differs quite a lot from the lines on the ‘official' map. We could say their Tartu is rather like... a quarter of that Rakke bowl, as the North, East and South are still missing from their experiential maps of Tartu.
And then there‘s the river.
The curvy Emajõgi bends Tartu's street network so much that surprising things start to align to the more experienced Tartu wanderers.
‘When moving down Anne Street towards the city center, it's always been weird for me that Turu sild and the Pipedrive building are RIGHT AHEAD of me. My spatial sense would place them elsewhere.’
“The strangest is when you stand on the dock in front of the Rowing Club, Vabadussild and the Tigutorn are lined up.”
These are some of the views people shared when I asked on Facebook and Instagram about the most mind-bending places in Tartu. In addition to the usual critique of oversized Lõunakeskus and city center traffic arrangements, people described such, more subtle spatial phenomena.
So the shape of Tartu - how it is felt and the perception of the places in it - is actually a rather individual thing. We move on the same streets but the big picture that is made up of them is different in each head.
That's why I am, well, mildly obsessed with drawn or photographed Tartu. I am thirsty to see what is the shape of Tartu for Sashami, OlevusArt, mitteparaadne_tartu, or that Latvian tourist. How do they feel this city? And maybe others also want to see what is the shape of Tartu as I feel it.*
(* It is shaped like bridges, toys, and panel houses if you judge by my Instagram.)
→ Let me know: what are the mind-bending places in Tartu for you?
2 /
Observe a Tartuvian
Mike Cole
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Mike is a PhD researcher at the University of Tartu and works for the Eesti Rahvusringhääling’s English Language Service. Recently, he has been penning some much-needed English language features about outstanding local creatives like Tartu naive artist Kairo or Võro singer-songwriter Mari Kalkun.
Mike, hi! For me you are one of the voices of Europe – you recorded the English audio signature used at the European Capital of Culture Tartu 2024 Programme Launch last autumn. Have you since furthered your career in the voiceover business?
At that point in time, it did seem like the beginning of a glorious new career in voiceover work for me. However, I’m sad to say, that no major new projects have materialized on that front since then. I definitely feel like I’m in real danger now of becoming a one hit wonder.
What do you think is missing in Tartu? What would you add to Tartu?
It would be nice if there was somewhere where you could easily find out about all the events going on in the city before they happen. There’s actually a lot of things happening in Tartu that international people living here would really like but they just don’t know about them.
Failing that, and I’ve been put under some external pressure when answering this one, an all-you-can-eat carvery buffet would be welcome.
What’s your current favourite place in Tartu for food?
I really like the “Home Café” (kodukohvik) days, when locals open up their gardens and sell homemade food and drinks to anyone who comes along.
Whether it’s in Karlova or Supilinn, Ülejõe or Tammelinn, there’s usually some kind of live music happening somewhere, as well as art or other events that you end up stumbling across too.
But most of all, it’s a great chance to wander round with some friends, explore parts of the city you don’t normally visit and interact with locals, which invariably leads to interesting encounters and results.
What’s your favourite place in Tartu for drinks?
Wherever it ends up being, the first outdoor drink at the start of spring always feels well deserved after the long, hard winter. Knowing it could snow again later that week, or even the same day, adds to the enjoyment somehow.
What’s your general favourite place in Tartu? Why?
In summer, it can be almost anywhere in and around the city centre or by the river. As long as there are friends, drinks and ideally some live music too.
In your opinion, which one is the most boring neighbourhood in Tartu?
How can any neighbourhood be boring after Kairo the naive artist has “vandalized” it with her strawberry stickers?
Tell us your favourite funny story about getting to know Tartu or Tartuvians.
As a huge fan of local football club JK Tartu Tammeka, I was thrilled to finally meet one of my heroes a couple of years ago during a meet and greet event - team mascot Tim Tammeka. Tim is an acorn and, as a result, quite quiet, but I felt we hit it off immediately and even posed for a selfie to remember the occasion.
However, things soon turned sour. A couple of weeks later, I ran into Tim again during a match at Sepa Stadium. I don’t know what I did or said, but Tim had clearly changed. He seemed like a completely different person and when I went to say hi, he acted like he had no idea who I was at all.
Tim, if you are reading this, whatever the reason for our fallout, it’s not right and has gone on far too long. It’s high time we put it behind us and focus our attention on getting behind the team again, starting with the next home game against FCI Levadia.
→ Go and see Mike (and maybe Tim) at the match on Sunday, April 28!
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Sketchy Stuff
How to Make the Perfect Packaging?
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For this issue, I was going to write a funky story about how I have been drawing Rüütli Street already for two years, but then something crazy happened. In two weeks' time, I went from sending hopeful emails to having my 'The Bridges of Tartu' set of storytelling postcards sold all around Estonia.
On Wednesday, April 17, I rang a doorbell on the edge of Tallinn. Literally on the edge, as across the street gaped a bowl-shaped wasteland, the Väo quarry.
The door to the warehouse of Rahva Raamat, one of two major booksellers in Estonia, opened. I introduced myself and the contents of the box I had been holding. A soft-spoken woman counted the packages my box contained, stamped the handover documents and it was done. I was outside again and looked at the quarry. A truck passed by.
Only three months earlier, I was gluing together the first paper prototype of what was to become the packaging of 'The Bridges of Tartu' set of storytelling postcards. You know, I study UX/UI design and this field is about prototypes and user tests. So I did both.
I gave the next sleeve-like packaging prototype to an inquisitive colleague with an inquisitive family. They repeatedly took the postcards from the sleeve, put them back in it, and told me what felt right and (mostly) wrong about the experience.
In parallel, I packed my courage, walked into a few Tartu souvenir stores, and asked the salespeople what they thought of my prototype and how would they best package such a product.
Funnily enough, with everyone the discussion drifted to how to discourage the too inquisitive clients from taking out all the postcards from the packaging, thus wearing it out before it is bought.
'Cut a window in the packaging so that clients can see the product that’s inside,' said one.
'Seal the packaging in plastic wrap,' said another.
'Please don't seal the packaging in plastic wrap,' stressed third.
I took the best of these insight nuggets to my usual printing house. Only to be told that what I envisaged now was too advanced for their machinery. So I had to contact Ecoprint, the biggest printing house I knew in Tartu. They were really nice and professional and quickly drafted a custom packaging template based on my instructions.
But first, they probed what was to be the quantity of my order. I guess my quantity was around the lowest mark their machines viitsivad teha.
But they did.
When I took the first of the printed packaging and put these seven postcards in it I knew the whole thing was 99% perfect. In both form and content, it was something that I myself had been missing in Tartu. This gave me the confidence and drive to offer it to several great shops.
And now this journey that started with a glue stick and paper knife had taken me to ‘The Bridges of Tartu’ set of storytelling postcards being on sale in Tartu, Võru, Viljandi, Pärnu, Tallinn, and online.
The next months will be decisive whether they remain on sale. If ‘The Bridges…’ makes it as a product. Whether the world misses it as much as I did.
But without this great packaging, we would not have gotten even so far.
→ Check it out at Rahva Raamat online store or at Tasku Rahva Raamat!
4 /
Culture Recommendations for April-May
Linguistically Accessible Tartu Events
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It's a once-in-a-lifetime sight — the biggest wooden ship built in Estonia since regaining independence, the new two-masted lodi or barge will be launched into the Emajõgi on April 30 by Lodjakoda. The launch goes hand in hand with a concert of some legendary Estonian folk bands as it's also Volbriöö, Tartu’s party night!
Life imitates art on May 18 at Raekoja plats in front of Tartu's iconic Kissing Students sculpture. A crowd of thousands will gather and on the mark, everyone will kiss their partner(s) to set the record for the biggest joint kiss in European Capitals of Culture. The mood for ‘Kissing Tartu’ will be tuned by a concert of beloved Eurovision songs sung by a constellation of Estonian stars and Conchita Wurst.
There will be one very happy Mike, as a major kodukohvikutepäev or home café day takes place in the Karlova neighbourhood also on May 18. Last year, this neighbourhood of 8400 inhabitants had 61 home cafés. It's one café per 138 people! On this day, Karlova must be the most café-inated district in Europe! Keep an eye on Karlova Selts' Facebook page for more info.
→ Find more events at tartu2024.ee and kultuuriaken.ee
See you in Issue #3!
The Tartu Observer is written and drawn by @sketchingpaas. If you feel this issue was well worth your time, consider buying a print from me, becoming a paid subscriber, or send me a drink.